ABOVE me, my mother’s bottom
wobbled in the afternoon sunshine. All around
us, into the farthest distance, thousand of
olive trees stood silently to attention. Not a
bird. Not a breath of wind. I sighed. Well, to
tell the truth, I groaned.
My idea, which had seemed so bright when I
hatched it two months ago, was running out of
steam faster than my mother. The plan was to
take my parents on an adventure to celebrate
their recent retirement, and, I hoped, to get to
know them a little better, adult-to-adult. I
decided that a common challenge would be the
perfect way to do it, so off we went on a cycle
ride along more than 160km (100 miles) of an old
Moorish trade route between Granada and Córdoba
in southern Spain.
“Are you sure your parents will cope?” asked
Simon Proffitt, owner of Iberocycle, the company
that organised our trip. “It’s rather hilly.”
If he’d said mountainous, I might have
listened. But a glance at his route map told me
that over our three days of cycling we’d be
dropping from an altitude of 689m to 123m above
sea level. I pictured one long downhill with a
couple of hills along the way. And besides, we
had decided that only two of us would ride at a
time, with the third in a “support vehicle”,
ever on hand to scrape weary bodies off the
tarmac.
Our journey had begun at 10am just outside
Granada in Fuente Vaqueros, the birthplace of
Spain’s acclaimed poet Federico García Lorca.
Today his home is a kind of Graceland of Spain,
and although we would have liked to see it, we
were eager to crack on. We’d calculated that we
had more than 80km ahead of us, and at this
early hour we were still under the delusion that
gold was within our grasp.
“Good job they’re not
racing bikes,” grinned my dad as they climbed
aboard their two-wheeled steeds for the first
leg.
“Why’s that?” “We’d go too fast. Wouldn’t see
anything.”
I waved them off into the flat, fertile
plains of the Guadalquivir valley, and as I
trailed after them in the support vehicle, I was
reassured to see that they weren’t the only
cyclists about: three groups of speed demons
decked out in luminous Lycra whizzed past us
towards their breakfasts.
Shortly afterwards we stared up in amazement
at the 45- degree hill that winds up out of the
next town of Illora. “I don’t mind pushing,”
panted my mother. “A bit of biking. A bit of
hiking. It mixes it up.” But it didn’t take too
much convincing to coax them into the support
vehicle and drive on to the next town.
Crowned by the Castillo Arabe, the white
village of Montefrío harks back to the 15th
century when Roman Catholics marched on
Andalusia to win back their kingdom from the
Muslims. Today the only armies that can be seen
from the fortress are the orderly ranks of olive
trees.
As we left Montefrío the signpost to our next
destination flapped in the breeze. Not noticing
that it was not properly fixed, mum and dad
headed straight on, thrilled to be greeted by
every cyclist’s dream — a 10-mile downhill.
We’d come the wrong way. As we climbed back
into the support vehicle, there was a tangible
tension in the air. “What kind of nutter would
think riding 50 miles in one day is a holiday?”
I snarled. “You did”, said my father. Mum
engineered a bid for peace with a guessing game:
how many olive trees are there in all of Spain?
Like I said, some things never change.
Back on the right road, Mum and Dad decided
to make a bid for silver. I saw them off and
cruised a mile or so behind them. It was
beautiful, calm countryside. White farmhouses
embedded in undulating hills. I started to feel
relaxed. Until I saw my mother.
“How’s it going?” I asked with an encouraging
smile, driving up beside her. “Are you trying to
pay me back for your childhood?” she replied
with an anguished look.
Thankfully, after a solid night’s rest, all
was forgiven and we were back in good spirits.
We had only 25km ahead of us today — what the
bike company calls a rest day — and we were soon
on the road, enjoying the scenery of the Sierra
Subbéticas Natural Park.
By lunchtime we had reached Zuheros, a
whitewashed mountain town known for its
gastronomy. Rafael, the owner of the Meson Los
Palancos, welcomed us with the news that the
day’s special was an acorn-fed suckling pig, or
if that didn’t appeal, there was young goat,
rabbit and David Beckham’s favourites: “the
langoustines, steak, goat’s cheese and rioja.”
A photo on the wall confirmed that the
England captain dined there last winter. It all
sounded good, though not as good as the
cerveza that saw us off to an early bed.
There was 70km between us and Córdoba and
since we were no longer the martyrs we were two
days ago, we decided to drive much of the
distance, and cycle the last 15km.
For the first time in days, there was not an
olive tree in sight. Bronze corn covered the
gentle slopes, and at the top of the next rise,
there was the Great Mosque of Córdoba that has
lured travellers since the 9th century.
“You know what,” my dad said, as we gazed
down on the magnificent Moorish city. “I think I
might do the Cape Argus” (South Africa’s
toughest cycle race). Some things, it seems, do
change.
Need to know
Iberocyle, a British-owned cycle company,
organises independent and group cycling trips
throughoutin Spain.
The next group trip covering the Route of the
Caliphate runs from April 22-29 next year.
The price is £550pp, including all cycling and
support, and transfers from Málaga or Granada
airport. Maximum group size is 24. Call
Simon Proffitt (00 34 942 58 10 85; http://www.iberocycle.com/).
Page 2: More cycling ideas